EFI

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Manifold clearance

Manifold Clearance

sealed plug

Dropping old gas tank

97' Fuel tank/pump/regulator

97' Fuel tank/pump/regulator

Double Clap Fuel lines

Double Clamps on Fuel pump outlet

Note the Clearance between the ehaust manifold, and the Intake. I've read it should be at least 1/4 inch to prevent the intake from heating unevenly and cracking. .

It was now time to connect the Hoses, First the large brake booster hose connected to the side of the manifold. I put the MAT (Manifold Air Temp) sensor in next to the throttle body. I connected the 5/16" host to the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) next. and mounted the MAP on the firewall. Then I connected the Flow through "black" rear valve cover to the intake. The Front and large canister hoses go to the air intake.

Fuel system: Jeep uses 2 types of fuel systems, one older constant flow that requires a return line to the fuel tank and one constant pressure that uses just one line. Since the Fuel pump I found cheap actually included the gas tank and pressure regulator came from a 97 TJ, I will be using the constant pressure type. I had to modify the Fuel level sender using the one out of my YJ gas tank since they are also different. I cut out the fuel sender and bolted it inplace of the 97' Fuel sender CAUTION HERE: IF YOU WORK INSIDE A FUEL TANK, DRAIN ALL THE FUEL AND AIR IT OUT IN A WELL VENTALATED AREA, CRIMP AND SOLDIER ALL WIRES SO NOTHING CAN SPARK. Swap the sender plug and leave length to connect the power to the pump. The Thicker pair of wires are for the pump. I removed the old mechanical Fuel pump and cutoff the cam paddle, then reinstalled it w/ out any hoses. to seal the hole.

Double clamp The Fuel line to the new Fuel pump and steel fuel lines. It's important to use only EFI High Pressure rated fuel line. Jeep EFI pressure is between 40 and 90PSI depending on the conditions so regular fuel line will burst over time. I installed a 4.0 fuel filter inline between the pump and the steel lines.

Wiring Harness: I opted to buy Hesco's Wiring harness Though it's expensive, it comes all tested and labeled for each connector. I probably could have used one off Ebay for ~$40 bucks, but didn't know what went where. you might try it first, I found the plugs are pretty self explanitory.anyway, following the directions w/ the harness, you lay the harness over the top of the engine, connect the fuel injectors, then the O2 Sensor, then the MAT, MAP and TPS sensors. Then you Install and connect the CPS, then the Water Temp, then across back to the Distributor, Coil, then underneath to the VSS then finally to the fuel pump. They include 6 wires and a Diode. a Red Wire Connects to the Solenoid +, a Yellow you splice into the Yellow Switched power, a Black that goes to Vehicle ground, and Blue and brown wires that are for the Automatic tranny setup. The Diode goes in the wire leading to the Alternator Field, to protect the new computer. Mount the Computer and put on the connector with some dilectrict grease, don't overtighten it.

 

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Booster Connection and Canister nipple on Throttle body

Connect Brake booster hose

Front Fuel line

Front fuel line connection

Remounted fuel sender

Remounted Fuel Sender

CPS mounting notated

Notated CPS